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July 25, 2007

Salata Mechouia, Algerian Roasted Pepper Salad

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Roasted pepper and eggplant salads or dips are perhaps two of the most ubiquitous appetizers for an Algerian dinner. My friend Bruno, a chef instructor at Le Cordon Bleu in Ottawa, came over for dinner the other night. So my wife made this simple variation of roasted peppers.

Trader Joe's sells sweet bell peppers in packages of three, one each of red, yellow and orange. The yellow and orange peppers tend to sweeter and meatier than green peppers. You can add some hot peppers for heat, but we wanted to have a mild, sweet version.

The peppers were roasted one at a time over a gas burner set to very high heat, turning them as each side charred. The skins blacken, but the peppers cook only slightly on the inside, retaining their crunch and fresh flavor with their sweetness heightened just a little bit.

After the peppers are blackened allover scrape of the skin with a knife. They should come off very easily, cut off tops and remove seeds. I used this method to remove the skin and for the way it lightly cooks the peppers. I did not use this method for the smoky flavor, so I rinsed them very quickly to remove any black bits that remained after scraping with a knife. I know there is a particular kind of foodie who would consider this a crime against roasted peppers. My response is to advise against applying "foodie" notions of the correct methods and flavors willy-nilly across a range of food cultures. In this application for Algerian roasted peppers a strong smoky flavor is not desirable.

At this point (as shown in the photo), the peppers can be dressed with lemon juice and olive oil. Roasted garlic puree or finely minced raw garlic are optional. The chopped peppers can be added a chermoulas or salsa tomatish (tomato salsa).

Or they can be cooked further in a pan with olive oil for 15 minutes to bring out their sweetness even more. I sprinkled this with finely ground toasted almonds and toasted and herbed breadcrumbs.

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July 19, 2007

Solar Eneryg, Solar Cookers and Solar Ovens

North Africans in Algeria, Morocco and Tunisia are increasingly using pressure cookers instead of clay tagines, not just to save time, but because of fuel scarcity issues. It may be hard for someone who can just turn on an oven to understand just how scarce fuel can be for people in different parts of the world. In rural areas women and children can spend more than 40 hours a week gathering fuel, that's a full time job just gathering fuel. And that doesn't mean they can count on a steady supply either. I was reading an article about Algerian scientists working with NGO's to distribute solar ovens in the sahara. Free source of heat in the sahara, the blazing sun. There are quite a few manufacturers of solar ovens. I was delighted to fin quite a few companies that are non-profit or give back a portion of their profits in the form of donations. Solar Cookers International, Solar Oven Society and instructions for building your own solar oven. I am not affiliated with any of the sites. Please take a few minutes to read each one, especially the stories about how they've improved the lives of so many women and children in different parts of the world. I think the sites are informative, there are many more online. Perhaps, you will considered donating a solar oven.

July 11, 2007

Algerian Cuisine in Fine Dining Contexts

The school I teach at will present a series of my Algerian dishes at the school's fine dining restaurant. I'll post details as ready. The idea came about because so many people ask me if I have my own restaurant or if the school I teach at serves Algerian dishes at it's restaurant or cafe. The demand had to be met.

For the most part I've only posted about simple, home cooking style dishes on this blog. And I've presented them like a more typical home cook would. I've kept my chef's mouth shut here for the most part. Neither have I even begun to delve into historical high end Algerian recipes.

It's very apparent that Algerian and North African dishes have entered the fine dining mainstream not just as a few dishes here and there but with entire restaurants dedicated to them. Franco-North African is another genre that's continuing to evolve. I hesitate to be critical here, but mostly what I see with these places is emphasis on decor and marketing concepts with menus that are cobbled together without a vision.

As my schedule permits and this stuff actually begins to happen I'll post Algerian menus, plating techniques and recipes for catering, buffet, casual/family, mid-tier (bistro type) and high end restaurant contexts. Many of the dishes will be traditional, some will be my take on them, and others will incorporate Algerian flavors into international style recipes.

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July 02, 2007

How to Make Warka Algerian Home Cooking Style (Feuilles de Brick)

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Occasionally I am asked if I make my own warka. No, I don't. Warka making is a specialized skill that takes considerable practice. An old North African recipe for pastilla (beestiya) begins, "First you hire a warka maker to come to your home". A recipe for warka can turn into a recipe for tears and frustration. It takes lots of patience.

 

The warka maker's job is endangered these days by the many commercially made versions that are very good to excellent. While this is unfortunate for warka makers, it does make the pastry leaves more accessible and affordable for a more typical home cook. They are available to the trade in the States and you will see them on menus for items such as beestiya and croustillants. In France manufacturers label warka leaves feuilles de brick. This is an Algerian influence, warka is also called brik in Algeria as well as dioul and malsouka.

 

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