Algerian Cuisine Cuisine Algerienne by Farid ZADI

What is Algerian Cuisine?

What is Algerian cuisine? This is a question that I am asked often, but never really gave a clear answer for on this blog. I wanted to wait until I had a body of recipes posted. For now I'll offer an extremely condensed version of Algeria's food history.

Algerian cuisine is the most varied and diverse of North African cuisines.
It is a Mediterranean mix overlaid on a Northwest African Berber foundation.

Algerian cuisine is the most varied in terms of range of dishes and seasonings than Moroccan and Tunisian cuisines.  Algeria has more Spanish, Andalusian and West African influences than Tunisia to the east. Algeria has more Ottoman, Italian, French and contemporary Arabic influences than Morocco to the west. Mauritania obviously doesn't have a Mediterranean border.

In 1492, Columbus sailed the ocean blue
1492 was the same year the Christians recaptured Granada, the last Muslim stronghold in Al-Andalus. After more than 700 years of rule on the Iberian peninsula the Moors were expelled back to their North African homeland taking with them an Andalusian Hispano-Muslim cuisine. They settled largely in what is now Morocco and Western Algeria (formerly Mauretania, not to be confused with the current country of Mauritania), but made it as far as Tunisia.

Tlemcen

Tlemcen has been described as strongly resembling Granada with lots of water and lush with vegetation. Situated in Northwestern Algeria it is very close to the Moroccan border. Historically it was an important crossroads city for Mediterranean and Saharan trade. At various points in history the city was quite wealthy and like so many other major Algerian cities it was a cosmopolitan potpourri of peoples. For Jews it was the "Jerusalem of the West".

The cooking here is still very Andalusian and Medieval Arab-Persian inspired, similar to Moroccan palace cooking. Fragrant meat tagines with fruits, nuts and sweeter spices dotted with almond lozenges exemplify Tlemcenaise cuisine- the sort of labor intensive, extravagantly spiced recipes that North African cooking is renowned for.

Oran

It's just a 9 hour ferry ride from Alicante, Spain to Oran, Algeria. They say that on a clear day you can see Spain from Oran. In 1509 the Spanish captured the port of Oran. For the next 300 years Oran would change hands back and forth from the Spanish to Barbary pirates to the Ottomans.

Oran was also where Spanish settlers came with the French invasion of Algeria in 1830. The Spanish were mostly poorer peasants from the South and Catalan.

Just as any number of Spanish cookbooks are liberally sprinkled with references to Moorish influences in Andalusian cooking, Oranaise style cooking makes heavy references to Spanish influences. Andalusian and Spanish dishes such as cocas, paella, pastilla, fidwash (fideos), migas, skabetch (escabeche) and gazpacho are very Wahrani (Oran style).

Algiers The Capital

Le Corbusier's Plan for Algiers

Algiers.  [Photograph]. Retrieved  June 23, 2007,  from Encyclopædia Britannica Online:           http://www.britannica.com/eb/art-90781

In 1453 while the Moorish hold on the Iberian peninsula was on it's final legs- the Ottomans conquered Christian Constantinople and renamed it Istanbul signaling a shift in Islamic seats of power. The Ottoman westward expansion into North Africa actually began by invitation from Barbary pirates to form an alliance against the Spanish for control of shipments and ports.

Algeria recognizes Ottoman suzerainty from 1555 until the French invasion in 1830. At the time France was well behind in repaying a huge grain debt to Algeria. From it's inception the French invasion of Algeria was propelled by contradictory impulses and ambivalence.

The cooking of Algiers shows Ottoman and French influences. Dolmas, doner kebab, bechamel sauce, beignets and croquettes are some of the influences that make their way into traditional Algerian recipes. Algiers is also the capital of Algeria so there is a lot of regional blending with modern influences.

Algiers really comes into it's own with their range of pastries. Here North African pastries incorporated  Turkish and French inlfuences to create another world class style. The owners of the famous Algerian pastry shop La Bague de Kenza in Paris are from Algiers.

Coffee is served Arab, Turkish or French style. Another example of how ingredients and methods were introduced in several waves by different peoples into Algeria.

The pieds noirs of Algeria created their own particular Mediterranean mix of cuisines. For example a family with a Spanish father and an Italian mother with French citizenship on Algerian soil would incorporate all these different cultural elements into their daily cooking. Cuisine Pied-Noir website

Pieds-noirs exiled to France after Algerian independence and Algerian immigrants to France would transport Algerian dishes to France. Paris and Marseille in particular have the most North African influences.

Annaba

Photo retrieved from Annaba Photos

The history of Mediterranean basin trade in North Africa begins with the Phoenicians who arrived in the first millennium BC. They weren't looking to colonize land as much as they were interested in setting up trading posts. They established anchorages along the North African coast, most notably Carthage. Carthage grew into a powerful and wealthy city state but was destroyed during the third and final Punic war against Rome. Because of it's strategic location the Romans would rebuild what they ruined, by 150 AD Carthage would once again be a populous and thriving city.

Annaba (Hippo Regius or Bone) is in the Northeastern corner of Algeria near Tunisia. The ancient empire of Numidia (202 BC - 25 BC) was west of Carthage (Tunis) and east of Mauretania (Northern Morocco and Western Algeria). The parenthetical notes refer to seats of power and not the geographic reach of empires.

Numidia was an ancient North African kingdom that eventually became at turns a client state and Roman province, the eastern Maghreb was a prosperous and fairly stable branch of the Roman empire between 1-500 AD. It's well known that North Africa was the bread basket to the Roman empire, perhaps it's lesser known that there was also a rich artistic and intellectual life during this period. This was the era of the great Saint Augustine who was born in Tagaste, Numidia (present day Souk Ahras, Algeria) and educated in Roman Carthage.

The Vandals brought an end to Roman rule in Numidia and Carthage. But they made no culinary or cultural contribution to North Africa that we know of. Neither did the Byzantines who came after.

The prophet Mohammed (peace be upon him) was born in 570. Islam's swift spread is attributed to two primary methods- conquest through war and the spice trade. Why spices? The Islamic heartland straddles three continents: Asia, Africa and Europe making it central to all trade routes connecting these continents. Along with the spice trade Arabs spread their agricultural methods to North Africa, the Iberian peninsula and Sicily.

The Aghlabid dynasty that ruled (Ifriqiyah or the previous Berber dynasties of Numidia and Carthage) Tunisia and Eastern Algeria would conquer Sicily in the 800's and remain there for two centuries. To this day in Sicily the Arab/North African culinary contributions are remembered in a tradition called "cucina arabo-sicula". Sicily's annual couscous festival is a celebration of this legacy where it is also called a dish of peace and understanding bringing together peoples from the three continents of Africa, Asia and Europe.

During French colonial times Italians from the Southern part of the country largely settled in Annaba and the surrounding region introducing another wave of Italian influences into the Algerian culinary lexicon.

The cooking of Annaba is influenced by Sicilian, Southern Italian and Middle Eastern Arab cuisines. The earthy, hot spicing is similar to Tunisian. The noodle and pasta dishes here run the gamut from ancient whole wheat noodles, Berber steamed semolina pasta to newer Italian commercial varieties.

It is widely accepted that semolina pasta, a cousin to couscous, is a Saracen or Berber invention. I'm making a distinction here between semolina durum wheat pasta and other types of wheat noodles that were previously known . Clifford Wright, History of Macaroni .

Algerian Cooking in International Contexts

Making harissa with Chef Boyd at school. I prefer a smooth harissa so I pass it through a sieve or a food mill.

I'm often asked if I teach Algerian recipes at school. Yes, I do. I take my couscousier with me at least once every 6 weeks to demonstrate the proper method of steaming.

Preserved lemons have been integrated into the International portion of the courses.

Algerian Bulgur Couscous, Bulgur Pilaf, Couscous Tabouleh

I posted about different types of couscous here . Visitors to France and readers of French cookbooks have often asked me if tabbouleh made from semolina couscous is an Algerian influence. Yes it is. In Algeria tabbouleh is often made with semolina couscous. Probably because semolina couscous is the most commonly prepared in Algeria and it's an easy way to use up leftovers.

The kind of whole wheat couscous that's available at stores like Trader Joe's or Whole Foods is a purely commercial invention made from wheat flour. It is simply not possible to hand roll couscous from wheat flour, you'd end up dough for bread or pasta. Traditional whole wheat couscous is actually made from cracked wheat products like bulgur. If you like packaged whole wheat couscous try steaming bulgur for couscous. Steaming and buttering bulgur coaxes out the subtle, nutty flavor while helping the grains retain their shape. It's almost as if each grain was cooked individually. If you like bulgur pilaf, you'll be wild about bulgur couscous. It's an earthy and elegant dish.

I used #2 bulgur for this. In my previous post about couscous I used #1 which is finer.

Bulgur couscous can be eaten hot, at room temperature or cold. On hot summer days I like it chilled with a cold glass of lben (buttermilk, kefir or thin yogurt). It makes a refreshing light meal.

Bulgur pilafs are very easy to make. They can be seasoned very delicately or robustly to taste. You can steam baby vegetables such as carrots, zucchini and peas in a couscousier than season them with salt and butter then gently mix them into the bulgur. A more robust version can include a tomatoes, peppers and mushrooms. 

Unlike Middle Eastern tabbouleh, the Algerian version is not defined by the amount of parsley used. Ours is about the goodness of whole grain. Prepare a salsa tomatich (tomato salsa) with chopped firm tomatoes, Persian cucumbers, lots of flat leaf parsley, and ramps (or scallions) seasoned with salt, lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil. You can add any Mediterranean vegetable that tastes good raw or lightly cooked to an Algerian tabbouleh.

The ratio of vegetables to couscous used for pilavs and tabbouleh varies quite a bit. It's really about adjusting to personal taste and available ingredients.

 

Corn in Algerian Cooking

As far as we know Maize arrived in Africa in the 1500's. In Algerian cooking cornmeal is steamed for couscous, made into breads and griddle (skillet tagine) cakes, fritters, dumplings and porridges like polenta or hominy grits. Whole hominy is simply boiled to make a comforting gruel like dish or it is added to more elaborate soups and stews.

One of my favorite fresh corn dishes is whole corn cooked in hot ashes. However. living in an urban setting it's not convenient for me to start a wood fire and let it smolder for hours. I use an oven method for slow roasted corn. First remove the silk from the corn, leave the husks intact and soak the corn for at least 30 minutes in cool water. Preheat oven to 300 degrees F, cover corn with tin foil and bake for an hour. Another obvious option is to grill it over very, very low heat with the cover on. However, I do not have a bbq grill at home.

I made this last year and forgot to post about it. And now I can't find the photo I took of the plated dish.

Slow roasted or quickly grilled corn is sometimes served with spiced salt or spiced butter.

Spiced Salt or Seasoned Salt:

4 tablespoons coarse salt
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon cayenne
1 teaspoon ground pink and green peppercorns

Spiced Butter:

1 stick unsalted butter
1 clove garlic, finely minced
1 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 tablespoon finely chopped flat leaf parsley

Method:
Melt butter in a small skillet, remove from heat and add the remaining ingredients. Brush over corn before serving.

 

Cook's note: In Algeria lemon wedges are a very common addition to the table for squeezing on to foods such as corn, salads, tagines, and so on.

Desertification

I was looking for information about desertification and found a fascinating blog by Willem, Romanus, Jozef VAN COTTHEM- Honorary Professor University of Ghent (Belgium)/ Professeur Honoraire de l’Université de Gand (Belgique) and Scientific Consultant for Desertification and Sustainable Development/ Consultant scientifique pour la Désertification et le Développement Durable. Desertification Blog

Prof. Dr. Willem Van Cotthem needs melon, watermelon and pigeon peas. They can be mailed to Belgium.

All the seeds will be used for fruit production in arid or semi-arid regions, where we treat the soil with a water stocking soil conditioner, so that the rural people can grow these plants with a minimum of water. I promise to publish pictures on the results obtained with your seeds.

Isn’t this a very nice way to contribute to the success of a humanitarian project? The more melons and water melons you eat, the more poor rural people will get chances to grow them in their family garden and the kids will grow them in their school garden.

June 13, 2007

This message is to make an appeal upon your goodwill. Please be aware that you can contribute to our humanitarian projects in the drylands, simply with a tiny little effort.

Supposing that many of you eat melon and water melon, I would like to ask you not to throw the seeds away, but send them to me.

It is quite easy to wash them in a bit of water and let them dry, e.g. on a plate. Should you do this a couple of times, you will easily collect an interesting quantity of seeds (we don’t have any limit !). Please, put the dry seeds in a plastic bag and send them to my address :

Prof. Dr. Willem Van Cotthem

Beeweg 36 - B9080 ZAFFELARE (Belgium)

If possible mention the name of the variety of melon or water melon.

-------------------


Thanks for considering to send me some seeds.

Willem

Algerian Tagine Beida, Tagine aux Oeufs, Egg Tagine

This dish is also called a maquouda or strata. For a restaurant brunch presentation I suggest making the dish in ramekins. The dish can be put together the night before just like an Italian strata and baked in the morning. There really is no fixed list of vegetables that must be used in an Algerian egg tagine or strata. Zucchini, hot or sweet peppers, artichokes, carrots, fennel, ramps, or spinach are just a few examples of the kinds of vegetables that can go into an egg tagine. Other ingredients include sun dried tomatoes, capers, merguez sausage, olives, fresh herbs, gruyere, mozzarella, fresh goat cheese or parmesan.

I know there are some readers who love exotic, convoluted descriptions of North African dishes. But this is basically a breakfast casserole. Variations of this dish can include a crust made from warka leaves (or in urban areas store bought pâte feuilletée) for an egg tagine malsouka.

Algerian Torta

A small book can be written about Algerian egg dishes. The names of our egg dishes point to the unique Mediterranean mix of influences that is Algerian cuisine.

Bayd (beid, bayda)- Medieval influenced dishes
Ijja- Arabic
Shakshouka- Turkish
Torta- Spanish
Fritatta-Italian
Strata-Italian
Omelette- French

The Medieval Moorish and Arabic influenced egg dishes tend to be the most complex and varied. The others are mostly very easy to make.

This is potato, shallot and fennel torta I made the other day. The eggs are cooked until just set so the texture is light and delicate, not rubbery and tough. This can be eaten for breakfast or for a light lunch or dinner. For lunch or dinner I like to serve it with a simple green salad or orange and onion salad. Algerian table sauces for the torta can include harissa, salsa tomatish (tomato salsa) or sweet tomato jam (a glorified ketchup, worth the effort to make because it is absolutely delicious).

Ingredients"

4 medium potatoes sliced

1 large shallot sliced

1 fresh fennely bulb chopped

8 eggs

10" skillet with a non stick surface

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Salt

Algerian Mint Tea, Thé à la Menthe

In Algeria tea is also made in a samovar in the Turkish manner. No doubt a remnant from The Ottoman Empire. Charles Perry of The Los Angeles Times told me that samovars are actually Russian in origin. It never ceases to amaze me how far food related things travel from their points of origin, passed on from one people to the next.

Mint tea being poured "from up high". Do not attempt this with just any teapot. You need a North African one with a long tapered spout. You can practice by starting the pour very close to the tea cup then slowly raise the tea pot. The trick is a very slow pour and good aim. In the last photo I really did start the pour "from up on high".

Algerian Couscous Varieties

(Types of couscous clockwise from top: millet, corn, durum wheat semolina, bulgur wheat, burkukis and barley in the center)

A cookbook on Algerian cooking must begin with couscous. My family simply refers to it as ta'am Arabic for food or seksu the original Kabylie word for couscous. Elsewhere is is also called kesksou, more on this later

Couscous is the French spelling of Arabic kuskus, also called kuskusu.

Couscous refers to the grains that I listed or semolina 'pasta' that are steamed in a couscoussier as well as the finished dish. The Kabylie word for couscoussier is aseksut.

Paula Wolfert posted an excellent article about hand rolling couscous and I posted about steaming pre-made packaged couscous.

Algerian Fennel Salads and Fennel Slaws

Fennel, Carrot and Onion Slaw on a Bed of Mixed Greens

Algerians love salads. Tossed salads, composed salads, chopped salads, stuffed vegetable salads, bread salads, egg salads, potato salads, and pasta or rice salads. Raw, roasted, steamed, boiled vegetable salads. Salads mixed with citrus and orchard fruits, dried fruits and nuts, herbs, wild greens. They can be substantial enough to enjoy as a main course or a simple side dish to refresh the palate. Salads can be lightly dressed with citrus or vinegar and olive oil or richly coated with creamy mahonaiss (mayonnaise) or sour cream based sauces. Obviously not all Algerians love salads, however salads are as ubiquitous as couscous in Algeria.

Fennel slaws are really non-recipes. They are so easy to make and garnish with what's at hand. I'll just give a short list of just few Algerian fennel salad and slaw recipes with lists of ingredients.

Fennel, sliced very thinly
Endive, slice very thinly
Carrot, julienned or grated

Fennel, sliced very thinly
Radicchio, cut into chiffonade
Grapes or raisins
Toasted pine nuts

Fennel, julienned
Shredded Savoy cabbage
Grated Carrot

Fennel, finely chopped
Sliced boiled potatoes

Fennel, thinly sliced
Tart Green apples, julienned

Fennel, thinly sliced
Manzanilla olives
Flat leaf parsley

Fennel, thinly sliced
Sweet lemon (supremed)

 

I can go on and on. Algerian cuisine is all about endless variety with ingredients.