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September 07, 2005

Algerian Kesra and Khobz

Kessreezzit2(Photo courtesy of Jilal of France-Maghreb )

Many writers, including myself, have called couscous the staff of life in North Africa. I still maintain that it is, but bread is just as important.

There is something about the mere mention of khobz or kesra that touches us deeply. Long before there was couscous, there were simple pastes of flour and water cooked over fire or on hot  bricks. This bread takes us back in time, connecting us with our ancestors. It reminds us our beautiful Algeria.

It may come as a surprise to non-North Africans that my recipes and photos of our humble breads are the most talked about on Algerian food forums.

Maybe you are looking for something more exotic, an "Arabian Nights" fantasy of excess and exotic ingredients. Of course we have magnificent feasts of platter after platter of food that go on for ten days. But it is elementally true that a little bread or some couscous with lben or fresh extra virgin olive oil makes us happiest.

Kessretezzit1Others are possibly looking for the most "authentic" and old fashioned cooking techniques. Perhaps images of "natives" in traditional garb cooking in huts or over campfires. These traditions still exist of course. I can easily take off my fancy French chef whites and toque to slaughter a lamb with my own hands, butcher and cook every edible bit of it using the most basic pots and pans over natural wood fires. In case anyone is wondering, I have ridden camels and have made camel confit.

I've received several emails from Algerians commenting on the Zadi family farm and the way we live there. It is a life that is foreign too many urban Algerians. It's not like most North Africans are living close to the soil, herding sheep and spending all day farming to prepare their meals. Even my aunt had a butane powered stove and an oven. Although she did like to cook the old way whenever she could.

According to Jilal kessret essit is also called agroum ezzit. It is a type of oil bread made with no water, but with very fresh extra virgin olive oil that also gives the bread it's golden color. Samir says it's  a winter kesra of the Kabylie.

The preparation method is the same as regular kesra, just replace the water with extra virgin olive oil. It looks like this version was rolled a bit larger and thinner than the way I do mine.

There are many variations of flat and leavened breads using different flours. I promise Jilal I will post one very soon using barley flour. There is also a barley pasta made in the Kabylie with a pureed fava bean sauce.

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Comments

hi Zaid
i have read the articla on the Saudi aramco world magazine .. its rather intresting , i icculy apechaite the way you interdusing algerian food
good lack and all the bust mate!!
kamel from sydney

my husband is kabyle so i second the winter kesra of kabylie comment, which is how i am familiar with it. Yummy extra virgin olive oil...my mother in law comes back with gallons upon gallons and passes homemade oil out to her children scattered across Europe. They call it " 'aroum' "

Merci chers farid pour ce posting ?la kessra algerienne comme beaucoup d'autres recettes anciennes,meritent d'en parlé..
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